Panthère de Cartier Collection Carries On Her Reign

1914, THE CARTIER PANTHER APPEARED FOR THE FIRST TIME

Ring Panthère de Cartier Collection Yellow gold ring, onyx, tsavorite garnets Credit: Tania & Vincent © Cartier

In 1914, Cartier created its first panther-spot motif on a wristwatch. Inspired by nature, its black and white abstract onyx and diamond paving inaugurated the use of flecking in jewellery and pioneered the contrasts of the future Art Déco style. That same year, Louis Cartier ordered a “Lady with panther” from French illustrator and painter George Barbier.

The watercolour, initially used as an exhibition invitation, was then used by the Maison for its advertising.

A panther woman was taking shape… but who was she? A predator, an Amazon, a mystery, a fantasy, a muse, half-woman-half-feline?
What we do know is that she stood out, claimed her independence and freedom, and marked her existence with a wild and beautiful femininity as only she could.

For Cartier, the first panther woman was Jeanne Toussaint, Louis Cartier’s close collaborator and muse. She was original, creative and demanding.

She was an inventive source of inspiration who approached the feline step by step, revealing its jewelled coat through an impression of spotted motifs before giving it body and life. Cartier’s high jewellery creative director in 1933, in the eyes of her major clients she enveloped herself in an indisputable aura of elegance by dictating the famous “Toussaint style”.

Wristwatch with panther-spot motif, 1914 Invitation by George Barbier from the 1920s Drawing of the first Panthère bracelet for the Duchess of Windsor, 1959 Drawing of the Panthère brooch, 1966 Watch-brooch with panther-spot motif, 1915  Credit: Panthère de Cartier Collection CARPETA: Panthère de Cartier Collection Panthère de Cartier Collection Wristwatch with panther-spot motif, 1914 Invitation by George Barbier from the 1920s Drawing of the first Panthère bracelet for the Duchess of Windsor, 1959 Drawing of the Panthère brooch, 1966 Watch-brooch with panther-spot motif, 1915 Credit: Nils Herrmann © Cartier

2014, THE PANTHER CARRIES ON HER REIGN 

Bracelet, ring Panthère de Cartier Collection White gold bracelet, onyx, emeralds, diamonds White gold ring, onyx, black lacquer, emeralds, diamonds Credit: Tania & Vincent © Cartier

 

Because it makes its mark, its appearances instantly distinguish a style. The 2014 Cartier panther is once more distinguished by its phenomenal and modern presence.
Even on its own, its charm is arresting.

Figurative, graphic, playful, gentle, wild, sensual, ferocious or kinetic, it offers a range of surprises, loyal to its audacious and sophisticated jewellery aura.
Fifty-six pieces. A collection which the heroine reigns over with absolute feline essence.

Magnificent as a “vanity” ring, like an x-ray of itself in a gold skeleton.
Devastating when it gives an elegant and slender shock from one finger to another.

Op Art in its absolutely cellular version… A jewellery pattern of diamonds and onyx spots without body or head on a tribal bracelet.

Jewels made with tremendous know-how that take their creative vitality from the energy of Cartier’s totemic wild cat.

 CartierPresse

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